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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.